The London Lowdown

Logo The New York TimesThe New York Times
2023-09-19 19:38:18  • 7 mins

Cake bags, tube stop takeovers and word of a new top editor at British Vogue. Here is what we saw at London Fashion Week.

Working in fashion is no fairy tale just ask the independent designers in London. They may give the city its reputation as a hub of fearless creativity, but in times of economic upheaval, it is tougher for smaller labels to stay afloat. Once-buzzy names like Christopher Kane and Halpern went out of business this year. And this fall, the fashion week schedule seemed much lighter than in seasons past.

Several rising stars chose not to show their collections, including Nensi Dojaka, S.S. Daley and, after a last-minute cancellation, Dilara Findikoglu. But there was still much to be excited about, with some of the most talked-about shows from newer members of the fashion vanguard on the schedule: the dreamy draping on gowns at Di Petsa and Standing Ground, and the collision of skater grunge and Cornish milkmaids at Chopova Lowena (the label behind the cult carabiner-pleated kilts that seem to be everywhere). And then there was Priya Ahluwalia, who presented sublime prints inspired by unsung heroes of color, past and present, which were based on reporting in The New York Timess Overlooked series.

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